A glimpse into the Chalukyas

If you are from this side of the Vindhyas; Badami (known as Vatapi to many who lived in 544 AD), Hampi etc. are part of your childhood. You would have either taken a school trip or a family trip or if cool enough, maybe even a motorbike ride as a teen.

So, when I was reintroduced to these places as mecca for rock climbers, I was skeptical. Till I traveled a few times with the rock climbers and saw for myself. The massive granite (Hampi) and the smooth red sandstone (Badami) were indeed a completely different wonder for these men and women.

On my second trip to Badami, I conned my bestie into taking me to the nearby archeological treasures, Aihole (the first and relatively unknown capital of the Chalukyas) and Pattadakal. It was a drive away from Badami, couldn't take off on my own, hence the con worked.

Right before we walked in, there were ladies outside selling food in baskets, upon closer inspection, it was homemade Jolada (Jawar) rotti (pronounced with emphasis on the double 't'), raw onions, green chilli and buttermilk in a recycled water bottle.

We stopped, ate, packed some for later and got into the temple complex.

The size and the vishala-ness of these places never fails to quieten me. They are vast. And everything is housed within. The Chalukyas built these with an overtly visible integration of the so called north and south architecture. Though predominantly dedicated to Shiva, there is a nod to Vishnu and one can find jain influences. Aihole even has Buddhist remnants. There was enough room for it all to be part of history. Always nice to see the melting pot - gives you a sense that we, the so called modern, were not the first ones to encourage and respect other cultures.

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Galaganatha (usually refers to a Sparsha ('an iron rod placed near the linga turns to gold' linga) Temple

This particular temple caught the eye, Galaganatha, another name for Shiva. It has a twin in the Anantpur district, Chalukyan kingdom was widespread. Shiva in another form capable of a nuance that is not highlighted in the other Shivas. I realise that I love all of this with a deep sense of wonder and the more I delve I more I see life (at the individual human level) then and life now as the same. The continuity is visible at the deepest level - the fear of death and keeping ourselves busy to avoid it.

Lucky for me, I always travel with avid photographers, and the places I visit makeup for the lack of awareness I have when a picture of mine is taken. Don't know why I found my feet fascinating at that very minute.

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Durga

The Durga temple, constructed in the sixth century, is built in the Buddhist chaitya style - with the stupas. Sometimes the closeups are the only way to see the whole. You know, in the Ajanta caves when the guide takes you around, he shines a light on one panel or one part the panel and that contains the whole picture. There is nothing that is not whole in itself - small or big. The division is in us.

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Nandi

I don't know why or when the pull towards the Nandi (especially the sculptures) began. The gentleness depicted in the eyes is comforting. I mean, it is strange, I gravitate despite the stigma of being called religious (as an insult) or being perceived as Hindutva (a larger insult). Not too many try and practice the middle path.

Nandi the bull, Shiva's trusted ride and gatekeeper. And Nandi was everywhere here and I am everywhere too.

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The day ended with us driving back to Badami just in time to witness a flash waterfall - occurs only with heavy rains. Does anyone need to be anymore lucky than this? Agastya lake.