Delhi - the story is not new

As I settled into the hotel which shared a wall with Hauz Khas fort, my heart plummeted. The driver had already taken us for a ride beyond the ride, now this hotel room (which looked so beautiful in the pictures) was giving me roach nightmares. I was so tired and since I was the the only one who insisted we stay on in Delhi for 3 days, I did not complain much.

In order to shut down the dismal feeling, we stepped out and decided to walk around the fort. I loved how well-maintained it was. The open spaces were a boon for a lover-of-walking, like me. Built in the 14th century by Sultan Alauddin Khilji, it integrated nature as brilliantly as many Mughal structures. The lake views made me forget the room that awaited.

Many, many peacock calls through the evening, in fact I saw the rare pea-hens. Apparently they are rare; I just believe what sounds right to me when it comes to general knowledge.

I wanted to maximise my stay in Delhi, I had read so much about it (history-wise) I wanted to really ‘see’ the city. I had a massive list of things to see, places to shop (bonus) and bars to drink (added bonus) at. Obviously I would need a month or two to do it all, so I laboriously planned our 3 days. I poured over maps, checked distances, marked off metro timings, read about places talked to people and created multiple schedules. I was not allowed to follow it and was told we will go where the day takes us.

We walked around Hauz Khas - soaking in the eclectic-ness of the old, the clubs and hipster hangouts working together in a strange dance, reminded me of Pali Naaka, I miss Mumbai. Back to Delhi - I was mildly apprehensive, in my head Delhi still seemed scary. But, the rational mind soothed the lizard brain and off we went to further explore.

Agrasen ki baoli

A cab dropped us off at this recent archeological find.

A step-well built of the legendary Agrasen is what the current hypothesis is but one is not sure. This well was renovated in the 14th century during the Tughlaq period. The step-well is a common structure and evidence of it can be found in the Harappan civilisations.

The guard told us (voluntarily) that a construction project unearthed this well. First of many friendly, helpful people in Delhi, I would like to think there was a secret campaign going on to make me feel better about the city. He also told us that the urban legends of ghosts in the Baoli is not true, he has worked there for years and he hasn’t seen one, yet. How would he know though?

Ended up at Summer House Cafe, I experienced Delhi at its most chic. To say I dress for comfort is an understatement, if pyjamas were acceptable attire in public I would live in them. Delhi made me feel like I didn’t deserve to be running around in public, I must say it is a very fashion forward city.

Went back to the room, huddled in the sheets and prayed that the critters kept to their side.

Qutub & Humayun

We got out early to let the hotel people know we were unhappy and checking out, they were hurt. They asked us for 30 minutes and in that time, they had a deep cleaning crew at our door. They promised a sanitised and completely scrubbed room - we were impressed. We said okay we will stay, and headed out for the day.

Qutub

One of the only cities in India that I enjoy being a tourist in. The part of Delhi that feels like the capital of a country is so impressive, despite being here so many times. The Qutub Minar was no different.

We ran into an interesting old man who insisted on telling us the story of the victory tower, otherwise know as Qutub. His recording, if you are curious. He has summarised like an expert would. I have tried to add pictures of some of the things he talked about. Forgive the ambient noises.

A quick coffee at Blue Tokai inside the cottage industry premises and we were off to Humayun's tomb. The grandeur is unmissable.

The use of land and the feeing of vastness in most Mughal spaces is incredible. Over the centuries they have incorporated Timurid, Persian, Iranian and eventually Indian sensibilities in their designs - creating a seamless (to me) aesthetic space.

The importance given to after-death structures is a mystery to me. Was there anything beyond, ‘I want to be remembered‘? And then what. We are not really learning much from our history, in fact, we insist on repeating it. So, why else? Others have done it and I want to do it too? Maybe, 'keeping up with the Jones' was a thing back then too.

The struggle for me (especially these days) is the multiple perspectives the old and historical is raising, I am not able to just stand and admire something - I think of the masons who built it, the kingdoms that got looted for it, the poor that looked at it and thought why this and not food, and so much more. I want to hold all this till I find a way to process it and still be able to marvel at a human’s vision. And obviously not just Humayun did this, kings across the world and across millennia have also did the same - built wonders at a great cost to millions.

We ended the day by trying to shop at Sarojini market, I lasted all of ten minutes. I gave up trying to be a local and quietly went to Dili Haat like a proper tourist.

Tughlaqabad Fort and Nizamuddin Auliya Dargah

The connection is a story - Nizamuddin, a Sufi saint was getting a Baoli(step-well) built the same time Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq the ruler at the time was building his massive fort - the rule in the city was that all labour should be working on the fort during the day therefore the Baoli work only happened at night. Tughlaq was angered by this (I guess he didn't expect the saint to find a loophole to his rule) so he forbade the selling of oil to the saint's workers. The story is that the saint converted the water from the Baoli and turned it into oil and in parallel a curse/'bad-dua' was unleashed by him on the king. Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq died as he was returning Delhi when the canopy he was resting under fell on him. The decline of the Tughlaq Dynasty was set in motion. The dargah is still one of the most revered places in Sufi history and the fort lies in ruins.

I went to both places - I was able to walk around the fort without restriction and I was not allowed inside the dargah. Nizamuddin's most favourite and most famous pupil, Amir Khusrau is buried there too. Happened to watch/listen to the azaan, goose-bumpy all the way.

Fort

Dargah

Rakhigarhi - for another time

The plan for the next day was a 4-hour drive from Delhi to see the largest Harappan Civilisation site, sadly the night before my fatigue of 2 weeks caught up with me, and I couldn't go. I insisted on Delhi only because I wanted to go here, well, this is what happens when I over-plan. Sigh. A complete trip of the Indus Valley Civilisation is next one the list - maybe Pakistan too (I know, I know, no one will let me in). So much of the Indus Valley Civilisation is just across the border, damn politics.

Closed the trip with a couple of breweries and a Uniqlo shopping spree.