Finally Madurai

An incompleteness of a holiday felt the exact same way as thinking I have left the stove on and the home is in flames as I sit far away consumed with helplessness. Strong feelings you say, not really, but very uncommon for me. I usually settle down post a trip, in fact, enjoy being back home. This was new. Then again the pandemic really messed with one's knowledge of one’s self.

A trip was planned and I did not dare tell anyone, being thought of careless about the pandemic is not a good or true look on me.

Key places are marked, as for the rest of places we got lucky.

The biggest surprise was the drive itself; never have I ever. It was a heady mix of abundant paddy fields with peacocks roaming around, acres of banana fields(?), mountains and in stark contrast bare coastal roads, flat with palm trees and in contrast to that the drive back was views of the majestic eastern ghats keeping us intermittent company.

In timely sequence:

1. Namakkal fort (drive by)

Built by the Madurai Nayaks, the clean lines of the fort caught my eye. There is a mosque and a Narasimha temple on top (we weren’t allowed in). The thing about this fort was that you could still 'see' that the town was built around it. I know that’s how forts works but I could ‘see’ this one very starkly.

The goddess that Ramanujam (the ultra genius mathematican) credits his work to, Namagiri thayar (Lakshmi in this temple) resides in this temple. He has shared in multiple forums that she would come in his dreams and share the wisdom with him. He says, 'an equation for me has no meaning unless it expresses a thought of God'.

Thanks Vidya.

2. Maragathaleswara Swami Temple, Padal Petra Temple (drive by)

Bright white steps caught my attention, they lead to a temple. We slowed down (maybe even stopped, can’t remember). Looked at the temple. Read a bit about it as we drove off, a Shiva temple - most reviews were of local travellers who commented on the quiet of the space. Next time maybe.

3. Rock Fort and Sri Ranga (drive by)

Was wild with excitement as I recognised the two landmarks from my Chola trail (first blog). Very authoritatively shared what I knew of both the places. The last time we went there I hadn’t paid attention to how they looked from the highways. They stand out and you are meant to be drawn to them and without your knowing say a prayer.

4. Thiumayam Fort, Sathyagiriswarar Sivan Temple & Lakshmi Narasimha temple (?)

We were about 30 minutes away from the Chettinad land when I laid my eyes on an old temple, a bit off the road. We had made good time so decided a detour won’t hurt the military time regiment my friend made us follow.

The Thiumayam fort was closed. Was a bit bummed, it looked inviting and we would have been the only ones. But rules were rules. Read about the fort - warring chieftains and an important stronghold of the rebel chieftains in the Polygar battles was the most I found. Built in the mid 17th century, had 7 circles of protection, each blessed by a deity, only 4 circles remain today.

We drove around and I saw the temple doors open - Sathyagiriswarar Sivan Temple. The temples in the caves of the hillock were functional therefore open. The priest was ready to close, I snuck in and was I glad. It was built in the 7th century by the Pallava kings. Shiva and Vishnu exist in harmony here, this was done to foster harmony between the two sects.

I walked to the temple next door, where the Sanctum Santorum was closed so couldn’t make out the temple, the writing was Tamil. Still waiting on the app that translates written word for you. After a bit of help from Google, landed on Lakshmi Narasimha, not sure so won’t claim.

Reached The Bangala - many food experts have written quite a bit on this gem of a Chettinad palace/hotel. I will refrain and say awesome food (yes, even the vegetarian fare). We dumped our bags, rested for a bit and drove off to Madurai to see Meenakshi!

5. Meenakshi Amman

The way I gush over temples might give a false impression of God and I. The pure joy of seeing history is all my happiness is about. With God, its complicated.

A very suspect astrologer once told me I was born in Madurai in my previous birth! So, full Telugu movie style I was expecting flashes of recognition as I entered the city. If they came I didn’t see them.

I was finally going to see the third of the trio - Kanchi Kamakshi, Kashi Vishalakshi and Madurai Meenakshi. It was something amma (I know, I know) always said, You have to see all three. I tried to look for proof of this belief that she had shared with high conviction, couldn’t find any.

Madurai ('city that never sleeps' and 'the nectar that fell from Shiva's locks') is an old city, dating back to the 3rd century, built by the Pandyan kings. Was a rich city and was quite active as a trading hub - archeologists have found evidence of robust trade with Europe and Rome. Pepper, pearls, ivory, textiles and gold were exported and luxury items were imported.

Legend has it that the king and queen did a great yagna for a child and a 3 breasted daughter with beautiful eyes was born. They named her meen(fish)akshi and it was prophesied that she would be a great warrior and the third breast would fall off when she met the man she was destined to marry. She meets Shiva during one of her conquests and as prophesied her third breast falls off and they get married. She comes back to Madurai and is crowned queen.

The Pandyan flag and their coins had the image of two fish. The temple as it stands today was rebuilt by the Nayakas in the 16/17th century.

The marriage of Meenakshi and Sundareshwara (Shiva's name here) is reenacted every year at Madurai. In fact we found out that the cast and crew making a modern version of the story for Netflix were staying at the hotel we stopped for lunch. We didn't make an effort to bother them.

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The crowd was 1/1000th the regular size and it just made my day; I sound selfish. As we went in looking a bit lost, a guide just appeared and before we knew it we were inside. Beautiful, serene and no photographs allowed. Just me absorbing the quiet, I was quite moved and overwhelmed - this moment had been a long time coming. I usually spend my time walking around the temple but still do make it a point to see the deity and my deal is to be present as I stand in front of the idol, even if it is for 30 seconds - fully there. I am cognisant and I make sure it happens. This time I was distracted as I stood in front of Sundareshwara (Meenakshi's Shiva) and as I walked out I felt bad. So strange. I continued to see the rest of the temple, looking at the architecture, making mental notes of questions I wanted Google to answer and found myself back at the entrance of the door back to Shiva's temple. An old pujari stood guard as they were getting ready to close, I made eye contact. And he asked, do you want to go in again, and I said yes. He said run in before they close. I ran. I went and stood in front of Shiva again, and gave my 30 seconds of attention and walked out. I was shaken and realised I was crying. Kindness from an unexpected source (pujari) was too much to take? It was a coincidence? The universe picking up on an ask?

Due to the really, really minimal crowds, the pujaris were sweet and accommodating - even in Rameshwaram, where there was even a lesser crowd.

The Gods are lonely.

6. Land of the Chettinad

The businessmen who made it big in the mid 17th century - lavish and humongous homes and a variety in cuisine that surpassed most of the other sects. The area we stayed was filled with Chettinad mansions (90% of them in disarray, some in use by the descendants and a few converted to luxury home stays).

With help from an extremely reluctant manager of the place we stayed in (we did not look wealthy or important enough for him to give beyond 30 seconds of attention, I was quite disappointed), we had a basic idea of what to do. I did see him fawning over the other guests, felt a bit left out, you know what I mean. And, we stayed just for one night, how dare we? I digress.

Koppudai Amman Temple

We first went in search of the famous antique markets, went in circles but couldn't find it. The one person we asked said, beware, they sell fake stuff. We lost interest. Though the market itself was a riot on the senses.

I found this temple in the middle of the square and walked in. A goddess, again the writing was in Tamil so I couldn't find the name. Walked around and saw the deity, was given the prettiest flower/leaf combination I had ever seen. Was so happy with it.

Once I found the name of the goddess and read a bit, I was pleasantly surprised. Her temple is 500 years old, and Sri Shankara acharya is said to have placed the Sri Chakra. She faces the east unlike the other goddesses (Ugra Devathas) who face the north, hence promises education, prosperity and courage. Her 'ratha' for the yearly procession is made only of palm frames and plant stems - takes special skills to build it.

Athanakudi

Known for fantastic tiles and brilliant landscape. It was raining and perfect as we walked around. We didn't find the ones we were supposed to go to but instead wandered and were awed by the ones we saw. Kanadukathan - quiet village, mansions galore, Venkatrama in Theri sold us some beautiful cotton weaves.

In the hope of finding a mansion on an island (google promised it) we found a lovely Shri Sivan temple instead. Spent time walking around.

7. Rameswaram

We were on the land which felt like an island only because we saw the sea on both sides. We were surprised to see that the people looked the same as non-island dwellers. We were expecting sea-faring, rakish (read dashing) looking island people. Live and learn. We just chilled in our rooms with good food and great views, the Hyatt was wonderful. Everything was closed expect for the temple, including Danush Kodi - where the country ends and where there is a bridge underwater (the certainty of it depends of who you talk to) which as the legend goes Rama with the help of Hanuman and the Vanaras built to go to Lanka and bring Sita back.

I went alone to the temple the next morn. The others saw the mess around the temple and said, no thank you. Again 3 people (not exaggerating) inside. Walked around freely, kindly priests and kinder people (who held on to my phone and slippers just didn't take money). It was serene and I wandered.

The police who usually are rude and pushy had really nothing to do

Myth has it that Rama came here after killing Ravana to repent his sins. And he installed and worshipped the Shiva linga that is here. Sita is said to have built the linga with sand.

The town gained prominence with the Ramanathaswamy temple in the early 6th/7th century. The cholas ruled it for a short while and Shiva's entry into the city's history is recorded by 3 Nayanar poets in the 13th century. 8. Aqua outback - http://www.aquaoutback.com/

This last stop was debated till we actually got to the point of the turning to the highway. It had been raining on and off and we had only heard about this place recently, so the skeptics were skeptical. I wanted to go but I was consistently vetoed. Finally we took a call to go see and if it was really not comfortable we would leave.

Boat ride to the place and I was hooked. Sitting by the sea is all I did. Good people and good food. Definitely going back again. The others slowly grew to love the place.