Hampi & Kishkinda

binduchandana
Nov 11, 2020
4 min read

Updated: Mar 28, 2023

Been to Hampi a couple of times in the last 15 years but mostly to the Virupa Gaddi side of things - yes, the one with the hippies and the climbers. A different world than the ruins of the Vijayanagara Empire, a world that was stuck in the 70's with hardcore climbing thrown in. Most of the days of my visits were spent lazing on the granite rocks watching the climbers climb and the evenings spent on the hammocks, under the starts, trying not to choke on all kinds of smoke. Was great for a couple of days for a non-climber but eventually the craving for a clean bathroom would take over violently. These were the days when the markets were alive (a replica of the markets of the Vijayanagara Empire) and Hampi was open to all. There was an ease and a laidbackness in that environment The last few years has put a complete stop to climbing and the entire area has been cordoned off - Virupa Gaddi as I had seen it was over. A decision taken to protect the fragile archeological sites of Hampi.

Circa 2007 - front and centre

Cut to 2020

A trip just post 'Unlock 3' was being planned and I was excited. It had been over a decade from my last trip to Hampi - and I with my intently acknowledged love of history was very keen to see Hampi again. I had also been reading about Vasundhara Filliozat (thanks to Fountain Ink) and her decades of work in understanding the Vijayanagara empire; I had to go.

The monsoon this year was relentless, especially in Hampi and the surrounding areas and our sweet hostess tried everything to convince us not to come - imagine the extent of the rains/floods that she was willing to give up good business during the worst year for the travel industry. I did not budge. I pushed/cajoled/begged my friend who was organising the trip; "we should go, I will buy galoshes, wear raincoat, not complain about bugs and lizards that follow bugs, will not bring up Covid etc." Wore her down and nine of us in two cars were off!

Fun fact: The rains were gone by the time we got there and the hot & humid sun welcomed us and our winter/rainy weather clad bodies. The weather loves a good joke.

Kishkinda

We stayed in the small village of Anegundi, a place more ancient than Hampi. It is a quiet village with trails to the ruins of Kishkinda situated on the banks of the the mighty Tungabhadra. Wiki says - "Anegundi area is older than the Vijayanagar empire and as old as the planet. As per geologists the Anegundi area is about four billion years old. This is the rare human settlement where we will find traces of Microlithic, Megalithic and Neolithic age of human life at one same spot. Till date, this village is a living heritage site in its true sense". In retrospect, wish I wandered more.

Eons after, Anegundi was the home of Hanuman and the Vanaras (mentioned in detail in the Ramayana and in brief in the Mahabharata along with other tribes of India who were associated with sage Pulastya). A major part of the Ramayana is nestled in these rocks.

As I walked the ruins (ran away on my own; you see, I wasn't able to find my bearing* with this trip and I was keen on locating it quickly, else, what is the point) - the views were spectacular and I wandered.

In my wanderings around Kishkinda, outside a tiny Devi temple stood a small Shiva-linga, Nandi and Tulasi, it was a surprising find - quite unique and I wasn't sure why it was outside. The guide we had was very sweet but unsure about this temple. An answer is being searched for as I write.

Kishkinda is not on the often travelled path as it shows you less and requires you to imagine more. If among the rocks where Hanuman was supposedly born you see the flourishing and thick Dandaka forest and can picture a thriving Vanara community, you have got what you came for.

Hampi Itself

A testament to the Vijayanagara empire, you cannot help but be impressed by the vastness of the empire. A lot in ruins but it is easy to picture a rich and prosperous culture until it was destroyed just because it could be. Same story, different king - across the world - the loop is as ridiculous as it is inhuman.

The archaeological evidence reflects secularism in its architecture, pursuit of literature and the integration of culture, though Vijayanagara and the Deccan sultanates fought many a battle. Scripts were found in Kannada, Telugu, Tamil and Sanskrit.

Read Vasundhara if you want to know more - https://fountainink.in/qna/when-the-south-was-one

The most famous of the kings was Krishnadevaraya - third ruler of the Tuluva dynasty, ruled magnificently in the early 16th century. Fair, able administrator, defeater of enemies, he was widely written about by Portuguese and Persian travellers. His minister Timmarusu is also acknowledged for his contributions.

Side-note: If you are a part of the generation that grew up waiting by the local magazine store for the latest Tinkle; you would remember the escapades of Tenali Ramakrishna. He is said to be a prominent member of the court of Krishnadevaraya and was appointed by him as a Vikata Kavi - a palindrome in telugu script meaning jester-poet. Tenali is know for his wit/intelligence and humour, out-witting the king many a time. And boy, did I love reading about him.

My eye caught a couple of stone-carved interesting motifs while I was walking around the grounds of the elephant stables - again no explanation in mainstream searches.

Never did get my bearings*, but the place we stayed was beautiful, the food prepared by Krishna was outstanding and a couple of picnics in the ruins and by the banks of the river made up (a tiny bit) for the disappearance of my bearings.

Bearings* - just a sense of being there (not in the past but in the present) - immersive and present. It is like I have situated myself, firmly, in there. It is not a sustained (obviously) feeling but it is overwhelming when it strikes.