A Dravidian Quest : The Chola Trail

binduchandana
Feb 20, 2020
6 min read

Updated: Feb 14, 2023

February 10th through the 14th 2020

During the trip:

Temples Visited:

20!

Places we stayed at:

Sangam | CGH Mantra | Bungalow on the beach

Food I ate: South Indian elai (banana leaf) oota (meal) wherever possible. On the last day made the mistake of ordering pasta, it was orange in colour. Shut my mouth and went back to elai. Song I heard: Nirvana Shatakam Book I read: Indica: A Deep Natural History of the Indian Subcontinent Book I listened to: Orchid and the Wasp Birds seen and heard (heard peacocks every morn at Kumbakonam, didn’t see them) So many, recognised only the kingfisher, the pigeon and the sparrow. People who got irritated at me 15+ People I got irritated at 1.5

Disclaimer: if I have written anything that is inaccurate or offensive it is only out of ignorance and not out of malice. Please do not judge the quality of the pictures, just know never to ask me to take pictures for you or of you.

I would so recommend the trip, and if it is with someone who knows the lay of the land and speaks the language it is so much better. I have written and put pictures of things that stayed with me even after 10 days of the trip. The legends and the stories all played in the background all the while allowing for my experience to be enriched in the most subtlest of ways.

Why I did what I did

Mythology and religion are interconnected in India. And it it took me a while to unravel it for myself, you know, draw my boundaries. There is still a lot in me that comes from my mother and grandfather where it is one and the same. I am cognizant of it and do watch it closely. Nothing much else to do with it.

A friend for life and me have been planning a Tamil Nadu temple trip for the longest time. She grew up with it and I had no clue except for the fact that they were old and the Cholas played a big part in it. You can get me, in a heartbeat, at old.

We drove for 5 days across the land that was once dominated by the Chola dynasty and I allowed for the story to take shape with minimal prejudice.

Beyond my physical presence and building the resolve to work with everything that is a part of a temple experience, there is the whole purpose of the visit. The following are a list of what propped up during the course of travel.

1. I am in search of the ancestor that I recognise and feel kinship with. 2. I absorbed a lot from my mother and grandfather and I haven't learned to let it go completely. 3. I love anything old and with wazn. 4. It sounds cool, Cholas and all. 5. I want to know more about my land, I knew nothing about any place I went. Learned so much. 6. Looking to connect with a higher being — seriously. 7. I like the comfort the gods give and I pray 8. Something to do 9. Inherited wheels under my feet, cannot stay in one place. 10. Escaping the humdrum of daily existence. 11. Want to be moved to my core. 12. Have the time and some money to spare 13. Make room for heightened awareness of my head

By the way all the temples we visited are living temples.

DAY 1: Tiruchirappalli

Srirangam

The gopuram dulled in colours aiming to touch the sky. Vishalam is the first thought, abundance of space and light and structure. My wandering off in the wrong direction gave heartburn to the self appointed knowledge holder of the temple (our guide). He gave up quickly and thought twice before he warned me of an elephant coming my way.

The detail blows your mind and in some parts of the temple complex there was no one but me. I unrealistically expected a king or at least a soldier to turn the corner.

It is an islet flanked by the Kaveri and the Coleroon, the story of how they carried the stone over the rivers is inspiring to say the least.

Jambukeshwarar and Akhilendeshwari (Shiva and Parvati) - Shiva’s persona has a coolness factor that is undeniable. Confident warrior, brilliant dancer, allower of rebirth (his destruction means that to me and to many I think), yogi and a one- woman man.

Fact learned here that most temples of the Cholas are shiva temples and each of them has him and his consort in different manifestations, hence Jambukeshwarar and Akhilendeshwari.

Here I break out into a song from a K.Vishwanath (KV) film, Akilendeshwari Chamundeshwari palayamam gowri etc. The profound influence of KV and his movies on my Carnatic musical inclinations for another day.

Shiva here is in water and to see him you need to put yourself in a space that is tiny as tiny can be. And with many other people vying to catch a glimpse into eternity, claustrophobia wells up in me. What do you pay attention to?

DAY 2: Thanjavur

Only in stories and now a massive reality.

Brihadeshvara, possibly the tallest Gopuram when it was constructed, 11th century. It sports a moat, is by the Kaveri and the main architect is the king himself.

Saraswati Mahal Preservation of the past, bronzes and all by a king who loved the old, Serfoji.

Ganapati agraharam A detour to a compact temple, with radiant colours.

Darasuram - Airavateshwara temple Oh My God. Just see the amateurish pictures and do swoon.

Swamimalai - Purely to see Subramanya. I learned that Darshana in Sanskrit means In-sight in English. So when I seek Darshana of the deity am I asked to look into myself? Clever.

Patteeswaram — Durga, Thenupuriswarar

DAY 3: Kumbakonam and neighbouring spaces

Suryanath | Shukran The nava grahas always intimidated me, still do. As a child I was told (and I am not making this up) that they all are made to face away from each other cause the universe would end if they looked at each other. As a child I should have kept some questions to myself as most adults then had no filters.

Vaideshwara

The healer. Was the most busiest temple, comparatively.

I went to a naadi astrologer (look them up if curious). Will not put out details, suffice to say I like what I heard. I am now thinking that was the main point.

Thiruvidaimaradur

This was a major detour, this friend had heard about the restoration efforts of this temple and decided we should inspect the quality of the restoration work.

The massiveness surpasses the massiveness of all others until now.

Was a sleepy one. It was the afternoon and the doors were closed. Got yelled by the guard, if you are picking a recurring pattern, you are right. No disrespect, I just like to walk around.

Thirunageshwara and the Rahu temple

Here we met Ganga and Lakshmi, ladies touring the temples, like us. We were innocently waiting for the puja to start, this sweet old man asks for tickets that only my friend has, the rest of us did not. His demeanour changed drastically, he starts swatting the old ladies with his towel asking them to leave. I sprung into action, sent Vadivellu ( the ‘best, most safest, always requesting me stop going the wrong way and constantly either looking for me or waiting for me’ driver) off to buy tickets for all. Grateful Ganga, Lakshmi and me along with friend watched the Abhishekam of Rahu (powerful graha). Cut to two days later, we are waiting by the boat to take a ride through the mangroves in Pichavaram, who do we see loitering around the boat, Ganga and Lakshmi!

They hopped on our boat and we took selfies.

Prathyangara devi Her temple was surrounded by cemeteries. She was heavy, vivid and truly unforgettable.

I prayed extra there.

Oppili Appam Love the massive standing Vishnu. The bliss that is captured is extra special, a shout out to the sculptors. Almost all temples banned photo-taking especially in the inner sanctum.

DAY 4: Kumbakonam and neighbouring spaces

Adikumbeshwara A deity with a distinction, graceful.

Sarangapani Again a reclining vishnu, massive. The temple itself (photographs were not allowed inside) was exquisite. As I walked out the thought that I should come back here flashed. And I have been conditioned enough to know I would have to keep that promise. So, I asked the others to wait, went in and saw them all again.

Mahamaham Tank

Shaneshwara

The one who you pray to when you are in your sade sati (seven and a half period of Shani or Saturn) in your life. Also known to be a period of great gains, astrologically.

Tranquebar

Beach, lazed. Stayed in a Danish built palace next to the Danish fort. Thought briefly about Danish ghosts and slept soundly.

DAY 5: The drive back

Chidambaram

The dancing Nataraja

The five elements are represented by different Shivas across South India, here he is space. So behind the Nataraja there is empty space which represents that and it is what we should see, if lucky enough. Obviously we weren't, though a young earnest priest did try his level best (you have heard of 'level best' right?). It just did not happen. But no regrets, the rest of the temple more than made up for it.

We did spend a lot of time here though as the priests were taking their time.

Gangaikonda Cholapuram If I ever build a city/palace/temple to showcase my dynasty, this would be the way I would do it. It is tasteful, detailed and expansive. And names of the people who built the temple is inscribed on the walls of the temple. Even the name of the lady who served buttermilk to the working men is inscribed on it. Rajendra Chola, in this regard, was a fair man, he understood the value of sharing credit.