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The allure of our neighbours - Oman

  • binduchandana
  • Apr 29, 2020
  • 4 min read

Updated: Feb 14, 2023

I lost count of the number of people who said, Oman? For a vacation? Really? Well, yes really. Why do people assume that if it is not in the mainstream of consciousness it is strange? I feel lucky that I don’t. The fringe is where my fun is. To be honest, I had heard a lot about Oman from my friends in the outdoor community, apparently a relatively unknown but great place for adventure sport.


And I did want to see more of UAE as I respectfully sidestepped Dubai. Bahrain was lovely too but it was a true work trip so I just saw the hotels, offices, belly dancers and the migrant SE Asian labour population. Plus when I was in Bahrain, the 26/11 attacks were on and the churn in my stomach held up just enough to focus on work.


So Oman it was and with a hastily put together crew.


Was nervous before we left, the stories about women and the middle east are usually not reassuring. Was very particular about what I packed. Covered ankles and elbows, though many said Oman is quite relaxed, just didn’t want to deal with any kind of attention. It was a non-issue, I was comfortable in the place in a day. That is why you go with similar and the same and not very different.


Was a five day trip, loved the blend of the old and new. For a relatively tiny place the country packs quite a punch in terms of nature. And as an added bonus, the natural resources were untouched and truly intoxicating, whether the beaches or the mountains or the oasis. Was a true surprise. In some places the landscape changed dramatically and without warning. As I drove (I did! Idid!) and the roads curved we passed from desert to mountains to homes that grew out of the sand and rock and to spectacular blue seas.


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I had a hard time looking and driving but I managed quite well, all five of us are back in our country. And the recurring theme, - no people where we went.


Will talk about a few sights that made me pause and say, interesting (drag out the word as you read). Important Information: none of the photographs are taken by me and filters are used on some, obviously.

1. The Oasis

Read enough about oases to really look forward seeing one in action. Oman is famous for many and some come with fantastic caverns (quickly eliminated as I do have a mild case of claustrophobia).

Since not all on the trip shared my romanticism of oasis and handsome Arab sheiks (mills & boon 101) we picked one that was on the way to more important places.

So, no vast desert with shimmering oasis in the middle, but equally dramatic sight awaited us.

The landscape was quite unexpected, ravines, craggy hillocks and crystal clear water hidden deep within them. The blessed among (confident swimmers) us frolicked in the water shamelessly while I looked on enviously. Look for the swimmer.


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2. The Fort - Muttrah


In the old city Muttrah is a 16th century fort right out of a fairytale. We only got the outside view of the fort which was born the time the Portuguese built alternate trade routes to bypass the other more powerful trading nations.


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3. Jebel Shams - The Canyons


After the clear polished roads of Muscat the roads turned into more mud and less polish and finally into a path of sorts. We climbed those paths unsure of the direction and the destination. Views were out of this world but the path was mighty treacherous. The only thing that still surprises but doesn't really, is people living in these vast empty spaces. Wonder why we are born where we are born.


I am not one to say, don't miss seeing this or that. But do see Jebel Shams, the rivers that cut these canyons have done a fantastic job, they have the highest peaks in Oman.



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4. Nizwa Fort


Attached to a souk (like many forts in the region) this fort was one that I went alone into. Nobody was interested in seeing the inside of the fort, they sat in the souk with doing what the natives did - dates and Arabic coffee (kawa).

The fort doubled up as a museum, artefacts of life and war of the times was well preserved. I walked up and down quite a bit wondering how people living in those forts managed the daily trek if they were as unfit as I was?


The abandoned but not completely abandoned village


I spotted the ruins from a height. Heartbreakingly beautiful. We drove down there at my insistence. Please understand we did a lot of things others wanted too, I am just talking about what I paid attention to.


As we got closer we realised that the village was functional with many people living. And some people who lived in some of the ancient homes were giving people tours of their homes. We went willingly and it was a true slice of the past. We got out and thanked them profusely for their hospitality. They wanted money for the tour, was a bit awkward.



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A country that I would love to visit again and target the rainforests next time!





 
 
 

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Bindu Chandana

Educator, Facilitator and Reluctant Writer

© 2020 Bindu Chandana

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